created June 19, 2005, updated Dec 2, 2005 with my final conclusions as to what happened.
Final conclusion, Dec2, 2005 - Given all of the information below, and the fact that folks have been flying Corvairs for years with no crankshaft problems up until now, I've reached the following conclusions. Cranks have only broken in KR based Corvair installations. We tend to turn them faster than most, climb and turn quicker than most, and generally hotdog a lot. And the guys who've broken cranks also FLY a lot. As mentioned on William Wynne's Crankshaft 101 web page, there seem to be extenuating circumstances for the other cases (very long prop hub, insufficient journal radius, etc), but mine's not so clear cut (although WW seems to blame a "blob of Loctite" on mine, which we both know is BS). I do have a slightly longer prop hub, which is 1.25" longer than WW's front starter setup (3" + .75" adapter puck = 4.25" compared to my 5" hub). That doesn't sound like much, but it IS 33% longer, and therefore multiplies bending forces created by the prop by 33% when they get to the crankshaft. I also have to mention that my engine was a 3100cc, which by definition means the crank is seeing 15% higher loads from combustion alone, so now we're up to 48%. That's a pretty big number, when you start thinking about safety margins.
After my crank problem, John Kearney decided to build an engine vibration test machine based on a laptop, using two tri-axial sensors, one located on the engine and another on the airframe (in order to difference out the airframe vibrations). We have tested several engines to date, and I've tested both my old prop and new prop with this setup, as well as with different indexing. Although John hasn't synthesized the data yet, his initial comment after reviewing a few slices of data was "The propeller forces that I reviewed for about three different RPM ranges were 10 to 15 times the magnitude of the engine power pulses making the prop forces the dominant input to the engine". This also supports the thought that the prop is a huge factor with regards to the forces that the crank sees.
Comments from experts in the field are that torsional forces were not an issue with my crank breakage...it was pure bending. I also have to mention that my engine was a 3100cc, which by definition means the crank is seeing 15% higher loads from combustion alone.
Nitriding is a significant amount of insurance against fatigue fracture of the type that broke my crank (see comments down below). Whether or not you'll ever need it depends on a lot of factors, many of which you have no control over and probably are not even aware of. I'm now building another 3100cc engine, with nitrided crank, and perfectly radiused journals. I'll also shorten the prob hub down to 3" (I have one of WW's hubs), because my cowling would be just as streamlined even if it was 2" shorter. If a shorter prop hub works, there's no reason to go with anything longer.
What else am I doing differently? The prop is indexed so that it is vertical when number 6 piston is at TDC. What this does is takes the extra forces due to P-factor (descending blade getting a better bite) and distributes them to the number 6 rod journal 90 degrees out of phase from when the rod bending is highest, so now it's perpendicular and not additive. My "new" 2700cc engine is as smooth as I ever imagined it could be, and I fly with a lot more confidence than I did with my first engine. I now have over 200 flying hours on this new crankshaft (as of June 2006), with no problem. I place most of the credit on the nitrided crankshaft, but prop indexing is probably also a factor.
Read the comments by experts below, and you'll come away with the appreciation for nitriding and carefull attention to journal radiusing that I now have. The crank in my current 2700cc engine was nitrided to a depth of about .015" at Advanced Heat Treat Corporation in Monroe, Michigan, (http://www.ahtweb.com/) at a cost of $150 (they have since informed me that for aircraft use, it's more than that). That's still some cheap insurance! My new (next) 3100cc engine crank was nitrided at Nitron, Inc.,25 Wellman Street, Lowell, MA 01851, phone 978-458-3030 (ask for Pramod). Price was fifty bucks, but turnaround time was slow.
Earlier....July 5th, 2005
Update, as of July 3, 2005 - Preliminary "report"
I have heard from five experts in fracture analysis who've seen the photos above.
The first was introduced to me as "the world expert on aircraft crankshaft dynamics and failure modes". First thing he asked was "was this crank nitrided, and the prop indexed properly?". His analysis is that "combustion forces are the primary source of the bending fatigue fracture", and there was "no torsional component". "The fracture is multi origin bending fatigue from the forward fillet of the #6 crankpin. The position of the origin is approximately coincident with the occurrence of peak combustion pressure from #6 cylinder, which is what I would expect in the case of a primary bending fracture. I see no obvious defects in the fracture origin area, including no unusual geometric stress raisers in the affected fillet. The multi origin nature of the fracture indicates that the part was overstressed by a moderate amount. You need a stronger crank (nitriding) or lower combustion forces. "
When I asked for details, he mentioned that one possibility was that I've bored it out to 3100cc (from 2700) and the rod is now transmitting 15% higher forces to the crank than it was previously. While you could argue that the same crank handles 180 hp in the turbo version, the actual total number of cycles at a load high enough to exceed the fatigue strength are rarely attained in the automotive mode, yet we call on it regularly to takeoff and climb in aircraft use. Also, 180 hp Corvair cranks are nitrided and mine was not! I should know even more after he gets a better look at it, and will report his findings. The answer to both nitriding and prop indexing questions was "no", unfortunately, but that makes it awfully easy to increase my safety margin next time around. When asked, he said there was no way detonation could break a properly designed crank.
Regarding nitriding and prop indexing, he wrote: "Your nitriding depth of .015 sounds acceptable. If the prior stress relief was above the nitriding temperature, there should be little warpage. For your two blade propeller, just index it 60 to 90 degrees from the #6 crankpin. On GA aircraft the prop is indexed in order to minimize blade bending stresses. The prop does not significantly affect crank bending stresses [on GA aircraft]. However, you will have noted that the front main bearings in a GA engine have a much greater effective length than in the Corvair crankcase. The latter is therefore more susceptible to crank/prop interaction."
Another expert is the metallurgist for one of the world's largest aircraft engine manufacturers. Upon seeing the photos, his first question was "are you sure that crank was nitrided?" He also said "you may be fighting a duty cycle problem". Keep in mind that "bending" is not just something that could come from the prop and hub, but is also what the #6 connecting rod does to that journal every time the cylinder fires on the power stroke, and returns the piston after the exhaust stroke. He also pointed out the sometimes when dealing with generously radiused journals, the edges of the bearings can "cut" into the fillet, creating a stress raiser.
We have a metallurgist on staff that spent years analyzing fractures in machine parts. She said "classic fatigue failure due to bending", and to prove her point, showed me a picture from a fractograph book that looked exactly like it. That still doesn't answer the question of exactly how, but I'm hoping to find that out from expert #1, who now has the parts in hand for a better look.
Another guy (pilot and homebuilder) who does this for a living for a large diesel engine manufacturer in Detroit said "textbook case of a bending fatigue failure". No signs of anything torsional. He said the break is normally closer to the source of the torsional problem, so that's another clue that the flexplate is not the problem. One of his co-worker experts also said it was highly unlikely that the extended length prop hub caused it, but I'm not so sure either of us go for that . And he suggested I seek employment as a fractograph photographer, since my pictures were so good!
Here are some nitriding comments by a metallurgist for a "major US helicopter manufacturer":
He also wrote: To do it right, the sequencing on your special processing needs to be correct. I would #1 Stress relieve, #2 Nitride, then #3 shot peen. The nitriding process is a heat treating process at around 980-1000 deg. F (depends if it is a 2 stage process to minimize the white layer) I would definitely request that the hard brittle white layer left from the nitriding process be removed by citric acid or abrasive blasting. If left on, it in itself can cause fatigue problems in the future. The beneficial effects of shot peening go away at around 600 deg. F sooooooooo........ must do nitriding first, then shot peen last.
From New Zealand: I was shown your "lovely photos" by a co-worker who is building a Corvair engine for his aeroplane. They are amongst the best photos of a classic crankshaft fatigue failure that I have ever seen. I have 26 years (mostly Military) fulltime NDT experience in 5 methods and have seen quite a few broken crankshafts and many with cracks. I have read your excellent article and thought I would add my 5 cents worth. You are on the right track with the Nitriding, etc and it is essential that there is a LARGE radius at the corner of the journal, the bigger the better, but it depends on the amount of room you have. "Good" machine shops will actually work this out and "dress up" a grinding wheel to the correct radius for your job.
The two points of origin of the initial cracks indicate to me that there was either existing cracking in the radius missed by Magnafluxing, or areas in the radius of "localised grinding burns" caused from when the crank was ground undersize. It is rare for a good Magnaflux operator to miss crankshaft cracks as long as the equipment and processes are "up to specification". Grinding burns can only be reliably detected by etching the journal with a special weak acid to show up any "decarburised" areas. These areas are very brittle Martinsite and cracks WILL start from there, even if the item is just in "normal" service. There is a Mil Spec available for the "Temper Etching Inspection" , its MIL-STD-867A (USAF), however most books on metallurgy will cover what/how to do it. Grinding burns are not limited to crankshafts and can happen any time there is a grinding operation carried out. We do a lot of grinding of aeronautical parts and all critical parts are Magnafluxed and Temper Etch inspected, irregardless of who was running the grinder. Most grinder operators are aware of the causes of grinding burn, but it can also "just happen" and not be evident to the eye. Well, good luck with it all. This has probably just given you something more to consider as you seem to have most of the other bases covered in your article.
What this is starting to look like is that there is no smoking gun pointing to anything "easy" like an existing imperfection, improper radiusing, oil starvation, foreign object scoring of the crank, or anything else other than simply exceeding the duty cycle fatigue strength for the crank. It simply saw too many cycles at a level that was above the fatigue limit, and failed, just like cranks do that have been overloaded for too long. This could be a combination of any or all of the following:
Add two or three of these up, and you have exceeded the crankshaft's fatigue strength. I think my installation simply pushed the envelope too far, and the other three KR crank failures did the same thing, in similar ways. Although most people think that cranks are nitrided to improve wear properties, it also makes a huge difference in fatigue strength. Nitrided cranks demonstrate a 50% increase in fatigue strength over non-nitrided cranks. I have an ASM report that gives an example of a 58% increase in fatigue resistance, which took the part from routinely failing in 10 hours to infinite life. Our mileage may vary, but this is an indication of how important nitriding can be to the life of a crank. Even Revmaster and Great Plains nitride their VW cranks, and practically all aircraft cranks are nitrided.
It MAY be that I could simply get by with nitriding the crank in my new engine, and flying again. This might get me up out of the range where the fatigue limit would never be reached. But at this point I plan on doing the following:
The crankshaft for my new engine is now being nitrided to a depth of about .015" at Advanced Heat Treat Corporation in Monroe, Michigan, (http://www.ahtweb.com/) at a cost of $150 (they have since informed me that for aircraft use, it's more than that). That is extremely cheap insurance for raising the fatigue resistance by 50%! The nitriding process also deposits .0003" of a dull film above the previous surface. Polishing with 800 grit crocus cloth removes the film, and restores the original journal dimensions of the crank.
Mike Sharkey is working on a system to read torsional vibration directly off the crankshaft while the engine is running. After my new engine is built, we plan to test mine in various configurations to create a survey of torsional vibrations in CorvAircraft engines.
John Kearney has volunteered to create a vibration analysis system and send it to CorvAircrafters so that each installation can be tested for vibration levels and rpm band locations. Hopefully, I'm at the top of that list. I would be happy to host a website that shows the results of these analyses on a variety of Corvair engines.
Steve Bennett from Great Plains Aircraft (VW aircraft engine experts) warned me that oil holes can be a serious crack propagator, so I'll ream my oil holes on this next crank also, and smooth over the edges like they were on my last crank.
Having said all of the above, you cannot argue that if you buy a crank from William Wynne, use it in an installation per his conversion manual, and index your prop correctly to your crank, chances of having a problem with your crank are practically nil (statistically speaking). Crankshafts break in all sorts of engines, including "official" aircraft engines. So don't let my problem worry you about the reliability of a William Wynne Corvair engine installation. If nothing else, my misfortune has sparked a discussion and analysis of potential crank problems, and now everybody is more aware of how important seemingly simple stuff like nitriding the crank, proper fillet radius grinding, and indexing the prop correctly can be. Further analysis and testing will make us all even smarter.
Thanks for the help, everybody!
Other interesting facts that may be of some relevance, written before the expert opinions mentioned above:
At first, the above circumstances led me to believe that the addition of the Nissan Sentra flexplate may have been a part of the problem, but given the data above, I no longer think that's the case. All props were two-blade wooden props weighing about 6 pounds, except for the Warp Drive, which is a heavier three blade composite prop.
I'll continue to add information, photos, and links to this webpage as the investigation continues. Right now I'm thinking that I will rebuild my engine and outfit the ring gear exactly as it was, and do a little testing with vibration measuring equipment. Then change things around while retesting so I can see the results, and KNOW when I've made a significant improvement in vibration levels.
Here's a primitive chart showing torsional vibration characteristics of this engine, as well as some basic info on the crank.
To see details of how this all came home to roost, check out my deadstick landing! site.
Return to Mark Langford's KR2S CorvAIRCRAFT engine project.
I had 50 hours on my 3100cc Corvair engine when the crankshaft broke (at 5000'). Well, really there's no telling how many hours it had on it before I stuck it in my airplane. After all...it IS 40 years old. This webpage will provide a description of the problem, and eventually (I hope), detail a solution. Sorry about the large photos, but I figured you'd want to be able to get a good look at the fracture. Please send comments to N56ML@hiwaay.net. Any idea as to possible causes or the mode of failure would be welcome, as well as clues as to what to check or change to prevent this from happening again!

Here's the big picture of what the crank looks like, with prop hub on the right end, harmonic balancer (and flexplate) on the left end. The break is right next to the front main bearing, and originated from the foreward-most rod journal, #6.

Here's the break area. The crack extends from the #6 rod journal to the first main journal, fillet to fillet.

Here's a closer look at the area. The "beach mark" striations point to the origin of the crack, like where a rock created ripples in a pond. The fillet radius is where the fracture originated. There are at least two large crack areas that met up at the oil hole. The oil hole is not the origin, but the localized stress concentration is where the cracks met and joined, forming the "cliffs" that you see. A real closeup is next.

A closeup of the rod side, showing where the crack originated at the fillet radius. Nice radial cracks very close to initiation site are called "ratchet marks". The fact that there are so many of these marks is an indication that the crank failed in several places at once, indicating an overall overstressing of the material, not just one imperfection that weakened the crank. This crank was magnafluxed by my local crank grinder before installation. Fuzz is from the paper towel that I wiped it off with.

This is the prop hub end, showing the main journal, along with a main bearing and a rod bearing. They are quite trashed by contamination, and of course the front one was wobbling all over the place after breakage, so it's not going to look very good after that abuse. I can see how this could happen pretty quickly at 3100 rpm, maybe in the 12 seconds that I went from "fine" to having to switch the engine off! Oil pressure was 39 psi right up until I throttled back. There was a quarter inch of aluminum shavings in the oil pan, most of it looking like it came off the cam gear in the last few seconds of operation, and a lot of finer stuff shaved off the engine case as the crank throw tried to machine its way to freedom. Oil temps were fine, and there were no other indications of problems (according the the Engine Information System which records EGTs, CHTs, and a lot of other info). No burned looking bearings, but they were all scored by aluminum chips.

A closeup of the photo above. Shiny polished places are where the crank rubbed against itself before I shut it down.

Here's a side view of the break at the #6 rod journal. Obviously almost a 45 degree angle where the beach marks are. You can also see the fillet radius at the bottom of the photo. Late Corvair "stroker" cranks are made of 5140 steel, and are forged. This one was ground .010" under, as are almost all Corvair cranks used in aircraft. Standard cranks are hard to find. It was not nitrided (and neither are most flying Corvairs), but I've come to realize that it should have been!

Here's a picture showing the radius on the #6 journal (left) compared with the radius on one of William Wynne's "aircraft" cranks. There appears to be no appreciable difference, so I believe incorrect fillet radius can be ruled out.
Nitriding does indeed improve dramatically
the fatigue life in all failure modes, i.e. bending, torsion etc. But it
only improve the cycles to initiation. The cycles to propagation quickly
pick up once the fatigue progression sets in. After 0.015" of fatigue
progression in a crank with 0.015 nitride depth = no benefit from nitriding.
To get even better fatigue benefit, the heavy duty market, i.e. Cat, Cummins
Diesel etc. will induction harden the throws and many times will also
incorporate a rolled (compression) radius coming off the throw. Typical
induction hardened journals will be in the neighborhood of 0.050- 0.075"
deep and a rolled fillet can impart a compressive zone upwards of 0.100
deep. Always remember cracks ONLY open under tension. Any residual
compression buys countering insurance. Nitriding, Carburizing, Induction
Hardening, Rolling and shot peening all belong in the powerful chapter of
Metallurgy dealing with fatigue improvement. Carburizing and induction
hardening on a unit stress basis probably imparts the best fatigue
improvement for cranks.
The gyroscopic forces imparted from a spinning prop
are to taken very seriously and treated with the up most respect. I spent a
lot of years working for a big helicopter mfg. - they use REALLY BIG props.
There was a tremendous amount of aluminum everywhere in the engine. The case, front cover, cam, and just about everything else in the engine is trashed. This picture ought to give you a clue. It was thoroughly broken. I found one piece of steel in the oil pan that had a weird ruffled appearance, as if fluted. I couldn't figure out where it came from, until I realized it was once the steel lip around the main seal, which went thru the rollers formed by the crank and cam gear, getting the fluted pattern! All of this in the 12 seconds that my engine went from "fine" to when I had to turn it off for fear it was going to shake off the airframe!
Here's the crank break. I'll get a better picture once I get it disassembled, but this is the number six rod journal, the one at the forward end of the engine, right next to the thrust bearing. The prop hub is on the other side of the engine case (to the upper left).
Here's the 5" prop hub end of the crankshaft, when it had zero hours on it.
This is the other end of the crank, which consists of the stock harmonic balancer, a flexplate adapter/pulley, and the Sentra ring gear bolted to it. The bolts thread into the center of the harmonic balancer hub, so the balancer function is unchanged (but admittedly not tuned to the "new" characteristics of the crank system). One other factor that I really don't think is a factor (but I should mention) is the John Deere dynamo. It is running off the flexplate adapter's pulley. Because it's a permanent magnet dyanamo, it has about 12 distinct positions, and when rotating it could conceivably impart some dynamic into the belt, and therefore into the crank. The normal Corvair alternator (and William Wynne's conversion) run off the stock Corvair pulley, which is on the outside of the balancer, rather than bolted to the inside of the pulley like the Sentra setup that most folks mentioned above are using. These studs and nuts were temporary, and were replaced with socket head cap screws before flight.
Here's the aluminum plate reinforcement, as it looked right before I hauled the plane to the airport and started flying it. 20/20 hindsight tells me that it should have gone all the way out to the inside edge rolled surface that the the ring gear is welded to, and should have been a little beefier. Just because the noise was gone, it doesn't mean it wasn't still vibrating. It would have to be spaced out at the three mounting bolts, but that would make this gear really stiff, as it would be somewhat triangulated. I think that would end any wobbling around due to the offset. The offset would actually become a strength, rather than a weakness! A steel plate welded to the ring gear itself would be even better.
This is a worksheet from the "Dale" that makes the harmonic balancer, showing some details he used to tune his balancer.
This one shows GM tests using two different balancer compounds. The balancer on my engine is tuned for something like 222 cps. After telling Dale this story, he agreed with me that it's hard to ignore the Sentra ring gear as a possibility.